Crafting Distinction

Tailoring methods for made-to-measure (MTM) garments, especially suiting, set tailors apart. The three core methods – fused, half-canvas, and full canvas – showcase the artisan's skill. Finishing touches like hand-sewn lapels and pick stitching are hallmarks of top-tier MTM tailors, highlighting their expertise.

Fused Construction: The Affordable Pitfall

Considered the cheapest and least favored, fused construction incorporates a 'fusible' layer between the jacket cloth and lining. Its lack of breathability, rigidity, and eventual bubbling make it easily identifiable. A fused suit, recognizable by its pressed-down lapel, is advisable to avoid.

Half-Canvas Construction: Striking a Balance

Occupying the middle ground, half-canvas construction introduces a canvas, often made from horsehair, ensuring breathability, body molding, and longevity. A popular choice among MTM tailors, it offers solid construction without the expense of a full canvas. 

Full-Canvas Construction: The Epitome of Durability

Considered the pinnacle of MTM construction, the full canvas extends throughout the jacket, enhancing shape, silhouette, and sturdiness. A well-crafted full canvas jacket can endure 3-8 years, surpassing the lifespans of half-canvas and fused jackets.

Selecting Fabric: A Tapestry of Choices

Wool/Merino Wool: Versatility Defined

The fabric choice is pivotal for MTM suits. Wool/Merino Wool emerges as the preferred choice, offering versatility for various seasons, low-maintenance, and resistance to creasing. Other fabric options, including cotton, linen, cashmere, silk, and mohair, cater to distinct preferences.

Decoding Numbers: The Super Fabric Code

Super Numbers: Quality Unveiled

Super numbers serve as a code denoting the quality and fineness of fabric fibers. Aim for a range of 100-140 for everyday suits. Validate claims by considering the fabric supplier brand and the country of origin for authenticity and quality assurance.

Global Impact: Origin Matters

Product Origin: A Global Tapestry

Consider the country of origin as it impacts workers' rights, environmental standards, and product quality. Italy and the UK are often perceived as desirable. That being said over the past few years overseas production has improved and can often rival UK an Italian production. 

Tips for First Time Buyers: Crafting Confidence

Embarking on the MTM or Bespoke journey can be daunting for first-timers. Simplify the process by keeping designs straightforward, opting for a simple house fabric, and avoiding fused suits. Consider investing in a full canvas for long-term satisfaction, prioritise construction quality over expensive fabrics, and trust your tailor's expertise. Clarify your preferences to avoid disappointment and, if possible, acquire two trousers for extended suit life.