The Ultimate Guide to Buying a Suit
A well-fitted suit is one of the most powerful statements a man can make. Whether you’re buying your first suit or upgrading your wardrobe, understanding fit, fabric, and construction is key to making a smart investment. Many men settle for ill-fitting off-the-rack suits without realising how much better they could look in a made-to-measure or bespoke suit.
Some of the finest suits in the world are crafted by top-ranking tailoring houses like Anderson & Sheppard or Jack Davison Bespoke, whose expertise ensures a perfect balance of tradition, craftsmanship, and modern elegance. Here’s everything you need to know before making your next suit purchase.
Understanding Fit: The Key to Looking Sharp
The biggest mistake men make when buying a suit is choosing one that doesn’t fit properly. Here’s what to look out for:
• Shoulders: The jacket’s shoulder seam should align perfectly with your shoulder. If it extends beyond or bunches up, it’s too big. If it pulls, it’s too small.
• Chest & Lapels: When buttoned, the jacket should lightly hug your torso without creating an “X” of strain lines.
• Sleeve Length: Your jacket sleeve should end just above the wrist bone, showing about half an inch of shirt cuff.
• Trouser Fit: Trousers should sit at your natural waist and drape cleanly with a slight break at the shoe for a classic look.
Bespoke tailoring from houses like Anderson & Sheppard or Jack Davison Bespoke eliminates these common issues, as each suit is crafted from a unique pattern designed specifically for your body shape.
Off-the-Rack vs. Made-to-Measure vs. Bespoke
Off-the-Rack (RTW)
• Comes in standard sizes, meaning alterations are often necessary.
• A quick option but rarely provides a perfect fit.
Made-to-Measure (MTM)
• Based on an existing pattern, modified to fit your body.
• Offers a good balance between affordability and customisation.
Bespoke
• Fully custom, with a unique pattern created for you.
• The highest level of craftsmanship, ideal for those who want the best possible fit and design.
If you want a suit that truly flatters your frame, made-to-measure or bespoke tailoring is worth considering.
Choosing the Right Fabric
Fabric plays a huge role in how your suit looks and feels. Some key options include:
• Wool: The most common and versatile fabric, available in different weights for all seasons.
• Linen: Perfect for summer, but prone to creasing.
• Cotton: A casual alternative to wool, offering a relaxed but structured look.
• Mohair & Silk Blends: Ideal for eveningwear, adding a slight sheen and sharp drape.
A mid-weight wool (around 10–12 oz) is the safest choice for a year-round suit.
Essential Suit Styles
Every man should own at least one well-tailored suit. Here are the key styles to consider:
1. Navy Suit – The most versatile option, ideal for business, weddings, and social events.
2. Charcoal Suit – A professional and formal staple.
3. Grey Suit – Works well for both business and casual settings.
4. Dinner Suit (Tuxedo) – A must-have for black-tie events.
5. Seasonal Suit – Linen or tweed for a statement look in warmer or cooler months.
Why Consider a Top-Ranking Tailor?
While off-the-rack suits may be convenient, they often lack the structure, comfort, and longevity of a well-crafted made-to-measure or bespoke suit.
For those serious about investing in a truly exceptional suit, visiting a renowned tailor like Anderson & Sheppard or Jack Davison Bespoke is well worth it.
• Anderson & Sheppard, a Savile Row legend, is known for its soft, unstructured tailoring, perfect for men who prefer a natural, flowing silhouette.
• Jack Davison Bespoke, based in the heart of London, blends modern British elegance with classic craftsmanship, offering made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring for those who want a timeless yet contemporary look.
By choosing a tailor with an established reputation, you’re not just buying a suit—you’re investing in something that will fit, feel, and look exceptional for years to come.
Final Tips for Buying a Suit
• Prioritise fit. A well-fitting suit, even in a basic fabric, will always look better than an expensive one that doesn’t fit.
• Choose quality fabrics. A good suit should last for years, making it worth investing in a durable material.
• Consider your needs. If you wear suits regularly, go for versatile colours and fabrics. If it’s for a specific occasion, you can be more adventurous.
• Work with a skilled tailor. Whether made-to-measure or bespoke, a great tailor makes all the difference. You can see our current tailor rankings here.
By understanding these fundamentals, you’ll ensure that your next suit isn’t just something you wear—it’s something that defines your style.